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Following the Champagne Route
by Nicole Clausing
Freelance Writer

 Nuts and Bolts

Locale: Champagne region surrounding Reims, about 100 miles north-east of Paris

Nearest Airport:
Charles de Gaulle (CDG) or Orly (ORY)


What's in a name? Luckily, not much in the case of the Route Touristique du Champagne. Yes, the name does have that dreaded word "tourist" in it. But you'd actually be hard-pressed to come up with a more typically French part of France. Once you've started down the meandering fifty (or so) miles between Épernay and Reims, you've left Paris and camcorder-wielding American tourists far behind.

chateau1The Champagne Route, as we'll call it, is not just a highway. It's many small roads that link the towns of Épernay and Reims. It's not the fastest route between the two (Reims and Épernay are actually only 16 miles apart as the crow flies). But it is the prettiest, and the most charming. It's also the most authentically French, tracing a path through the heart of the Champagne country. Along its length lie dozens of tiny villages where you'll find life lived at the same unhurried pace it has been lived for centuries. You'll find ancient abbeys and majestic chateaux. You'll also see whole cities where only a handful of buildings pre-date World War II--a typically French sight as well.

And, of course, everywhere you'll see champagne. The Champagne Route is paved with vineyards and dotted with champagne houses. Along the way, look for signs saying degustation. It means "tasting," and indicates that there's a nearby vineyard offering tours and coveted samples of the local varities. Take advantage of at least one cellar tour while in this part of France, even if you don't drink. You're never required to try the wine, and the tours are plenty entertaining without it.

While the big names like Moët and Perrier-Jouet are to be found in the Champagne region, many houses that you'll find along the Champagne route are so small you'd be lucky to ever encounter a bottle in the United States. Traveling the Champagne Route allows an unparalleled opportunity to try wines you might never taste anywhere else.

The whole length of the Champagne route could theoretically be driven as a day trip from Paris. But this would be missing the point. Although the green hilly countryside is beautiful itself, the Champagne Route cuts through an area rich in French history, and it would be a shame to breeze through without taking in some of it.

The following itinerary starts in Paris and quickly picks up the Route Touristique du Champagne. It's not a loop, but getting back to Paris is easy, if that's what you want to do. Simply take highway A4 from Reims, and you'll be back in a matter of hours.

A note about bubbly breaks: We've taken the liberty of suggesting some places where you might sample some of the local wares. This does not mean, however, that you have to visit every tasting stop, or that you have to imbibe at each one. We ask that you drink responsibly, and if you're going to visit several houses in one day, either skip some of those complimentary glasses, or pick a designated driver.

Chateâu-Thierry
Though not on the Champagne Route proper, the town of Chateâu-Thierry definitely part of the Champagne region and is worth a stop if you're coming from Paris. Military-history buffs will appreciate the town's historic role in both World Wars. In 1918, Chateâu-Thierry found itself at the epicenter of the battle of the Marne, a turning point in the war. Today a monument in the town of Chateâu-Thierry commemorates the Americans who fought in World Wars I and II. Six miles to the northwest, a different kind of monument can be found: The World War I Aisne-Marne American Cemetery and Memorial is the final resting place for 2,289 Americans who died in this area during WWI. (There is also a memorial wall inscribed with the names of 1,060 missing in action.)

A less somber attraction is the Jean de la Fontaine museum in the middle of town. The poet was born in Chateâu-Thierry in 1621. Today his childhood home is open to the public.

Also worth visiting in town is the Church of St. Crépin, dating back to the thirteenth century. Another ancient relic is the Tower of Balhan. This tower, constructed in the early sixteenth century, once served to protect the town.

Épernay
Once you've arrived in the small city of Épernay, you're on the official Route Touristique du Champagne. A better place to start would be hard to find: Épernay is the headquarters of the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, the governing body that oversees the trade and export of champagne. Épernay is also the home of the world-famous Avenue de Champagne. This street, which Winston Churchill dubbed "The most drinkable avenue in the world," is home to an extraordinary number of champagne houses, including Moët and Chandon, makers of Dom Pérignon.

Bubbly Break:
You're in the heart of the Champagne now, so go ahead and have a glass to celebrate. An excellent way to ease your way into the Champagne experience is with a cellar tour. Épernay's Avenue du Champagne is home to numerous champagne houses, of which Moët and Chandon is the most prestigious. For pure entertainment value, however, we recommend the house of Mercier. A 45-minute train ride through the grounds takes you past one of the world's largest wooden barrels (with a capacity of 215,000 bottles) and zips you through miles of underground caves. Yes, you get a glass of champagne at the end.

Hautvillers
Just a few miles off the official Champagne Route, and well worth the detour if you're a champagne aficionado, is the village of Hautvillers. Hautvillers is a small village hidden among the trees of the Marne valley. But it's not just the picturesque beauty that draws the faithful. The main attraction here is a simple Benedictine church. This church (now owned by Moët and Chandon) is where Dom Pérignon--said to be the inventor of champagne was buried in 1715.

Bubbly Break:
So soon? If you're really ready for more (and you're not driving) try visiting the house of G. Tribaut, on Rue d'Eguisheim. A member of the Tribaut family will take you on a tour (in English) of the grounds, and, if you're lucky, invite you to share a glass of the house offerings with the rest of the Tribauts.

Bouzy
Following the signs for the Route Touristique du Champagne, you'll come to aptly-named Bouzy, about 18 winding miles from Épernay. This village's claim to fame is that it produces a still red wine, known as "Bouzy Rouge."

Bubbly Break:
You didn't think you could get out of Bouzy without a drink, or at least a tour, did you? For a little variety, visit the cellars of Georges Vesselle. This house produces champagne, but is also a maker of the distinctive Bouzy Rouge.

Verzy
Another 18 miles down the road from Bouzy is the village of Verzy. There isn't too much in town to distinguish this village from the surrounding ones, but don't miss the surrounding Faux Forêt de Verzy--the "wild forest" of Verzy. The low, scrubby trees in this area are famous for their oddly twisted trunks, which grow into some very strange formations.

Reims
ReimsReims is the end of the journey, but it's a grand finale. There's enough here to keep you occupied for days. Even if you only have a few hours, don't miss the Cathédrale Notre-Dame (you can't; it towers above everything). This magnificent gothic building was constructed over 100 years starting in 1211, and was the coronation site for virtually every French monarch ever crowned.

Other attractions in Reims include the Musée des Beaux-Arts, with an impressive collection of works by masters such as van Gogh and Matisse. Those fascinated by war will appreciate the Fort de la Pompelle museum, which is located on the site of an old fort and devoted to WWI history. For a more peaceful experience, visit the Musée de la Reddition, where Germany formally surrendered to the allies in 1945.

Bubbly Break
Reims boasts several champagne houses. We recommend visiting the house of Taittinger, located on the outskirts of the city. Both the above-ground portion of the tour, which takes you through 700-year-old ruins, and the labyrinthine caves below-ground are well worth the trip.•


Inside Scoop
How Far is It?
While some hardy souls bicycle the hilly Champagne Route you'll probably be happiest in a car, especially if, like most of us, you have a finite amount of vacation time. (Visit our Reservations area to reserve a car online now.) You'll definitely need one if you're starting from Paris, since you can't ride a bicycle on the toll road between Paris and Épernay.

The following should give you a rough idea of how far it is between towns--we've also provided some directions.

Paris-Château-Thierry: 50 miles
From Paris, take A4 east (A is for Autoroute--meaning you will have to pay a toll). Take D1 ( a major but free Route Departmental) just a few miles to Château-Thierry.

Châeau-Thierry-Épernay: 30 miles
Take D1 south to D3 east

Épernay-Hautvillers: 4 miles
N51 north (N is for Route National--such roads are almost as large as Autoroutes, but require no toll). Change to D386, heading northwest.

Hautvillers-Bouzy: 15 miles
Take D386 southwest, back to Épernay. Here you will pick up the classic Route Touristique du Champagne. It's actually a series of small roads with many different names. Just follow the signs.

Bouzy-Verzy: 18 miles
Again, just follow the signs for the Route Touristique du Champagne and you can't miss.

Verzy-Reims: 20 miles
This last stretch is also marked with signs for the Route Touristique du Champagne--they will take you practically to the steps of the Cathédral Notre-Dame in Reims.

Remember, there's no rule that says you have to do it our way. You can travel this route in either direction. You can also improvise. Follow that country road. Spend the afternoon exploring the alleyways of an ancient village. And by all means, hop on a bike. It's a great way to take in the sights, sounds, and smells of this quintessentially French part of the world--at a quintessentially French pace.

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